Ultimate Guide to Cashmere: Quality, Pilling & Provenance

At Darlin London, we don’t just design pieces - we curate experiences in knit. And when it comes to our signature luxury cashmere, we take quality, origin, and craftsmanship very personally. We use 100% cashmere and cashmere blends to create ethically sourced, sustainable knitwear that blends softness with serious staying power.

What is Cashmere, Really?

Cashmere comes from the undercoat of hardy goats that live in extreme climates particularly the high-altitude regions of Mongolia and Inner Mongolia. These goats develop an ultra-soft down beneath their outer that’s the luxurious fibre we carefully collect, and the journey begins.

Where Is Cashmere Made? What the Label Really Means

Labels like "Made in Italy" or "Made in Scotland" can be confusing they refer to where the garment is processed and produced, not where the goats roam. Most of the world’s cashmere fibre - regardless of final manufacturing location - comes from Mongolia or Inner Mongolia.

At Darlin London:

- Our raw Grade A cashmere is sourced from independent herders in Inner Mongolia.
- It is manufactured in Nepal, where our trusted partners handle the knitting, and finishing.

So when you wear one of our pieces, you’re wrapped in a garment crafted in Nepal, made from fibre grown on the Mongolian plains—blending conscious luxury fashion with expert artisanry.

To give perspective:

- Mongolia has over 20 million cashmere goats, supplying around 40% of the world’s raw cashmere.
- Scotland and Italy, while home to expert mills and finishing facilities, have extremely limited or near-zero populations of cashmere goats. Scotland has one known commercial herd, and Italy’s farms are boutique-scale at best.

The difference lies in the fibre’s origin vs the craftsmanship of the final product. So when you see "cashmere made in Italy" or "cashmere made in Scotland," remember: the goat very likely grew up in Mongolia.

Why Does Cashmere Pill?

Here’s the honest truth: all natural fibres pill- even the finest cashmere. Pilling occurs when shorter fibres rub free from the yarn’s surface and form little bobbles. This is completely natural, especially after the first few wears.

But here’s the key:

- High-quality cashmere (with long, fine fibres) pills less and becomes smoother with wear.
- Lower-quality, short-fibre cashmere pills heavily and stays rough.

At Darlin London, we use long-staple Mongolian fibres, which means fewer loose ends, better durability, and less pilling.

Our tip: Use a fabric-safe cashmere comb or pill shaver. After the first gentle wash, most of the loose fibres will be gone, and the surface will soften further. Think of it as giving your investment knitwear a little tune-up.

 

 

How to Tell the Difference Between High & Low Quality Cashmere

Not all cashmere is created equal. And if you're going to invest, it's worth knowing what to look for. Use this guide to distinguish between genuine high-quality cashmere and lesser alternatives that don't age as gracefully.

Cashmere Grades

Cashmere is graded A to C, based on the diameter and length of the fibres:

- Grade A: The finest and softest -diameter of 14–15.5 microns and length up to 36mm. This is the gold standard. This is what we use.
- Grade B: Decent quality but coarser (approx. 19 microns). Feels good, but noticeably less soft and durable.
- Grade C: The lowest grade - thicker fibres (around 30 microns), scratchier feel, prone to pilling and stretching.

How to Spot the Good Stuff

1. Check the Label 
Look for 100% cashmere. If it's a blend, it must legally say so. Phrases like "cashmere touch" or "cashmere feel" are marketing spin. This is especially important when identifying true luxury cashmere clothing.

2. Feel the Fibre 
Run it over your chin or inner arm - Grade A cashmere feels feather-soft, light, and never scratchy.

3. Look at the Knit 
Tighter, smoother knits last longer and retain shape better. Excess fluff at first glance is often a red flag for over-processing or cheap fibres.

4. The Price Perspective 
Yes, premium cashmere costs more - but that reflects ethical sourcing, skilled labour, and fibre longevity. Cheap cashmere often means short fibres, poor craftsmanship, and quick decline. When you're buying from a sustainable cashmere brand, you're investing in craftsmanship and quality.

Final Word: Why We Care

At Darlin London, we believe luxury starts with honesty - in origin, quality and care. Our Mongolian fibre is responsibly sourced, our partners in Nepal are expert artisans, and our commitment to long-lasting, beautiful pieces is stitched into every seam.

Because true luxury isn’t just how it feels. It’s knowing exactly where it came from - and that it will be with you for years to come.

Explore our timeless cashmere essentials and feel the difference for yourself.

 

Darlin London - thoughtfully made, endlessly worn